What does SPF mean? We reveal the biggest sun cream myths

When it comes to weather, the UK certainly isn’t renowned for its sunshine. In fact, according to recent data, Britain counts four of the 10 “gloomiest” cities in Europe, with Manchester, London, Birmingham and Glasgow all seeing comparably few sunshine hours versus our continental neighbours.

Despite this, however, Cancer Research UK statistics show that skin cancer rates are currently increasing faster than any other type, with sunlight exposure a key factor in development of the disease.

Of course, there are many complex reasons for it - a lack of general awareness around sun dangers and the rising cost of SPF products to name just two. However, for sun-conscious individuals, aside from avoiding the sun altogether, wearing adequate protection in the form of sun cream is the single most important (and simplest) way to maintain our skin health. Which begs the question…are we doing it right? We decided to find out.

We surveyed 1,500 Brits on their sun cream habits, including their views on some of the biggest sun cream myths and their prevalence within the public consciousness.

We then spoke to two experts in the field, Elizabeth Japal, aesthetics director and pharmacist at The Derma Lab and Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed MBChB, co-founder and dermatologist at PowerYourCurls.com, to get their input on the findings and what we should all be doing to stay safer in the sun.

Does sun cream have an expiry date?

Given that extended periods of hot weather are so hard to come by in the UK, most people are unlikely to reach for the sun cream for more than a few days at a time, unless travelling abroad. Stocks may only be replenished irregularly as a result – especially given that ONS data from May 2024 shows the average cost of sunscreen was up by 30% in just two years.

So, it wasn’t surprising that our survey showed a fifth of Brits have a bottle of sun cream at home that has been sat in a drawer or cupboard for longer than 12 months.

However, sun cream does has an expiry date – something that 16% of survey respondents were unaware of. We asked the experts why SPF has an expiry date, why is it important to check if your sunscreen is within its expiry date and harm it poses if left hanging around too long.

Elizabeth Japal

“SPF has an expiry date as this is the date that the manufacturer states that the product will still be effective. The products within the SPF may break down and become less effective over time this is why it is important to only use the product within the expiry date. Most products will either have a specific expiry date or will show a symbol indicating how many months the product can be used once opened. 

“Using an out-of-date sunscreen may give the user a false sense of security whilst out in the sun - as the product may no longer be effective, the user may experience sunburn from harmful UV exposure, skin reactions and skin damage.”

Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed

“If you use expired sunscreen, you might notice that its consistency has changed; it could become watery, grainy, or clumpy. This change is due to the breakdown of its ingredients, which makes it less effective. As a result, expired sunscreen may not offer the same level of protection as a new product and could potentially cause skin irritation or an allergic reaction.”

Do I need to check sun cream ingredients?

Only a third (34%) of people said they would check the back of a bottle of sun cream for details on sun protection, expiry or ingredients. So, what should we be looking for and why does it matter?

Elizabeth Japal said:

“A broad-spectrum product is essential when protecting your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. When picking a product always go for SPF 30 or more. The higher the SPF the better when protecting your skin from harmful UVB rays. The product should also have a UVA rating of 4 stars or more. UVA protection can also be indicated by a UVA symbol - this means the product meets the EU standards. There are two main types of sunscreens available - chemical and mineral. 

“Chemical sunscreens are the most common and work by absorbing the UV light and releasing it as heat. Typically, these products have a thinner texture and absorb more readily into the skin meaning they need to be applied more regularly.

“This type of sunscreen should be applied at least 20 minutes before sun exposure.

"Mineral sunscreens act as a physical barrier to the sun and work by absorbing the UV rays and deflecting or scattering the radiation. The ingredients to look out for in these products are Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.

“Generally, these products are much thicker in texture and leave a white residue on the skin. A larger quantity of the product is required; however, the protective effects last longer once applied and provide immediate protection from the sun. 

“In terms of formulation choice, there are plenty of products on the UK market. It is always a good idea to think about the need for water-resistant products, skin sensitivity and the area in which the sunscreen is being applied when making your choice. As long as the product covers all the points mentioned above the rest is down to personal preference and needs."

Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed added:

“Consider the type of protection offered (UVA vs. UVB protection). Both UVA and UVB rays cause skin damage but in different ways: UVA rays age the skin prematurely, while UVB rays cause sunburn.

“Check the active ingredients; physical protectants like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide provide effective protection but may leave a white cast on the skin, while chemical protectants like avobenzone, octocrylene, or octinoxate do not leave a residue but can harm coral reefs and may be restricted in some countries like Australia. Finally, look at the SPF level and choose products with an SPF of at least 30.”

Do I need to wear sun cream on cloudy days?

With sun in the name of the product, you could be forgiven for thinking that you only need to wear SPF in hot or direct sunlight. And you wouldn’t be alone – according to our survey, one in 20 Brits believe that you don’t need to wear sun cream on cloudy days. However, this is misguided and potentially dangerous for your health.

Both of our experts agreed: UVA and UVB rays can still reach our skin through the clouds therefore it is important to still apply sun cream to protect your skin from these harmful rays. 

What does SPF actually mean?

Sun protection factor, or SPF for short, is often used interchangeably for sun cream. Most people will be aware that the higher the SPF, the higher the protection. But how does this work in practice and what does the number really mean? 

In our survey, only 35% of respondents correctly identified that SPF refers to the time you're protected for, compared to no sun protection. So, wearing SPF 30 will typically delay sunburn 30 times longer than if you were wearing no cream at all 

Concerningly, though, more than half (51%) of people said the SPF number refers to the percentage of harmful rays blocked – for example, that SPF 30 means that 30% of the sun’s rays would be blocked. This was incorrect. Almost one in 10 people (9%) thought it refers to temperature (i.e. you should wear SPF 30 if it’s 30 degrees C). Around one in 20 people (6%) even said that doesn’t mean anything and is randomly assigned.

While this is not a problem in itself, as long as we’re wearing a higher factor when needed, it does point to a general misunderstanding around sun protection that could – and should – be remedied.

What are the most common sun cream mistakes?

Despite all of those in our survey saying that they have bought and applied sun cream in the past, and 84% stating that they believe they do so properly, our experts explained that mistakes and misunderstandings are still worryingly common. They outline some of the major ones they see below.

Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed

“I've seen and heard of a few, mostly based on skin colour that people with darker skin don't need sunscreen (they do, melanin doesn't stop UV rays from affecting your skin), using sunscreen once (you need to reapply every hour or so since it's efficacy wears off) or that using other ingredients like mayonnaise (I couldn't believe it either) could work as a temporary sunscreen (it can't).”

Elizabeth Japal

“The most common mistakes made with sun cream application are the frequency of application and the amount of product used. As a general rule of thumb, sunscreen products should be applied two-hourly or more often if you have been in water or have been sweating. You should aim to use 6-8 teaspoons of product to cover the entire body."

How can I stay protected in the sun?

Finally, we asked our experts for their tips on overall best practice when it comes to sun safety. Which of these do you follow?

Elizabeth Japal said:

“Whilst sun creams can offer good protection from the sun, it is also essential to seek physical shade where possible particularly during midday to early afternoon when the sun is at its highest. 

“Wearing a hat is also important to protect the face and scalp from the sun and keep the head cool. Most importantly stay hydrated by drinking lots of water throughout the day - due to the heat from the sun and the increased sweating it is very easy to become dehydrated." 

Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed commented:

“Stay in the shade whenever possible and check the UV index before going outside. Adjust your clothing and sunscreen application based on the UV levels to ensure you stay well protected.” 

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